Pruning roses!

Most roses are a grafted form which means that the rootstock is a hardier type of rose and above the root ball is called the scion that has characteristics that we usually look for in roses. For example, longer blooming, larger roses, more fragrance.
Most require yearly rejuvenation keeping younger canes on the shrub.
The first types we will discuss are hybrid teas, florabundas, and grandifloras that bloom on current wood.

Feb/Mar
1.Prune dead, damaged, or diseased wood.
2.Prune the weak or spindly growth (thin twigs usually at the base).
3.Prune to open shape in center (prevents disease and helps air circulation).
4.Prune any crossing branches (this helps to keep center open).
5.Prune the older wood more than 3 yrs old to base (this promotes more growth).
6.Prune to take out root suckers (if allowed to continue will revert plant back to the rootstock which usually doesn't produce the best flowers).
7.Prune the rest leaving about a 1/3 of the canes (usually 8-10" of 3-5 canes for hybrid teas, grandifloras, and minitures; and 12-18" of 3-5 canes for florabundas and patio roses).
8.Always try to prune just above an outer bud or vertical branch with a slight angle cut (this will insure that the new branches will grow out rather than into the center).

Jul/Aug
1.Prune stems to the second or third set of leaflets.
2.Prune dead, damaged, or diseased wood.

Mid-Nov
1.Prune canes to waist high to prevent wind rock or ice damage.
2.Prune dead, damaged, or diseased wood.
3.Mound mulch over bud union to prevent frost damage.
4.Occasionally, you can strip leaves off cane.